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The following has been kindly contributed by VRaider. A simple and direct guide to painting an anime model.

Just a some terms you should be familiar with before you move on to the next tutorial...

Glossary

Drybrushing
Load your brush with paint, wipe most of it off on a damp rag so that only a few pigments is left on the brush. Then quickly but gently brush across the desired areas. Notice how these few pigments stick to the miniature and create a kind of highlighting effect. This technique is good on hair, hands, armor of all kinds, and especially weapons. 

Wash
Washing is what you do when you water down the base colour, or a darker shade of it and apply it on top of the base colour. The mix must be thin enough to flow down the recesses of the miniature and leave the base colour shining through on the raised areas. If you're feeling advanced at this stage you can use ink instead of watered down paint for this procedure. Any art shop should have a good selection of inks in different colours. The most useful however are red, green, yellow, brown, black (for black lining, covered later) and blue. Inks flows smoother into recesses and leaves a more shiny result than watered down paint. 

Highlighting
Highlighting is a technique that requires some practice to master. It's important to have the correct amount of paint on the brush, if it's too much you'll get a somewhat dry and powdery effect, if the paint is allowed to dry too much before the procedure is finished it will look dry and crisp also. I usually water it down a little bit, not as much as when you make a wash, just half a brush full or so for 6-7 brush full of paint (A brush full is my term for dipping the brush in the paint pot and putting it on my mixing plate instead). I then take _very_ little paint on the brush, sometimes even wiping it off on a rag, and brush ALONG the raised areas, not across them as you do when you dry brush. This way the paint doesn't dry as quickly and it's easy to erase any mistake you do with the highlight by brushing the fresh paint off with a damp brush.

Black lining
As miniatures only are 25 or so mm high, light does not create shadows on them as on normal clothing. I and many with me use black lining to create a contrast between different parts of the miniature which creates the illusion of heavier shadow on these areas. Paint a thin black/red/brown line between all areas on the miniature, the beard and tunic, the sword blade and handle etc. I use black ink for this procedure as it flows better and it's easier to make thin straight lines. I recommend it for all who wants to be serious about this. 
- full credit is given to the actual author(s) of this section.

Now, on to the tutorial!

TAKE OUT THAT MODEL YOU JUST FINISHED WITH THE OTHER TUTORIAL AND KEEP ON 
READING!

Deciding What to Do

Ok, you've painted your model but there's something missing... or is there? At this point you need to decide if you really -want- to use these advanced skills. This is because it's very easy to make a small mistake and mess up the whole model. Also I use  a specific brand of paints, there called -Citadel- paints, the war hammer people. I use their painted because they're the best (IMO) and I like the names of the paints :). Ok well you've been warned here's what you'll need:

For dry brushing (it's another form of highlighting):
-A worn brush or a brush that you don't mind getting messed up.
-A lighter paint color (lighter then what your dry brushing) for your dry brush.

For highlighting: 
-A lighter color of your base coat (table below).
-A fine and -very- strait brush for precision highlighting (my name for it).

Shading:
-A darker ink of your selected color (below).

What Paint to Use for Different Colors and a Little Info on Why

Black, Red, and Blue highlights. Use gray or white for a standard highlight. Use a metallic gold for a royal looking soldier or metallic for rusty highlights.

Green highlights. Use a lighter shade of green or yellow of a normal highlight.
Gray highlights. Use a dull white or bright gray.
White, guess what! You don't need to highlight a white model because white is the brightest color in the color table!

Shading

Not a whole lot to this, just get the same color of your base coat but get it in an ink and a shade darker. For white you can use a dark blue, and for red use brown.

Ok, now take out the model you just finished base coating. That's all you did, base coat the colors on it. But now were going to have some fun. Get a darker color of you base coat. And PLEASE remember (and I'll cap's it)...

FOR EVERY COLOR ON THE MODEL HAVE AN INK TO SHADE IT WITH AND A LIGHTER COLOR TO HIGHLIGHT IT!!!

I can't even begin to tell you how many people don't remember this rule. When you shade only shade the color that it was meant to get shaded. For example, after you've shaded red with a brown color.

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Instruction provided by VRaider.
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